Mini Nuke kit Assembly guide


Bought a mini nuke kit from us recently? Check out our assembly video!

Happy May 4th! 50% off printed lightsaber kit


We launched our lightsaber a year ago today! Since then you’ve all given a ton of great feedback and support. So to celebrate, we’re offering our printed kits at 50% off today only at! So if you don’t have a 3D printer but have been following us for a while, you can pick one of these kits up at a super low price.

Formlabs Form2 3D printer First test


It’s here! The Form 2 SLA printer from formlabs! is now an official Canadian Formlabs Reseller. (which means I get to play with it) Check out my first test.


Regarded as one of the best Desktop Photoresin printers out there, we’re excited to have one to work with in our shop. When I went over to, Sean had one of these running and he gave me a quick run down of the printer! He also gave me one of his famous scuttle fishes.


Immediately impressed with it’s quality, I couldn’t wait to get my hands on one myself.

While I have a bunch of Ultimakers to work with, there are some fundamental things that even the best FDM printers can’t do that well. One is producing clear objects. Transparent filament exist but due to the process of laying down lines of plastic, air gaps form between the layers and you get more of a translucent look rather than a transparent look.

Tiny objects also cause a problem for FDM printing because you’re using a lot of heat to melt the plastic, during the printing of small objects, the object itself doesn’t have enough time to cool so it looses fidelity due to the heat.

Lastly, water tight internal channels of fluid are virtually impossible to make with the FDM process reliably. The form 2 is ideal to fill those roles. And what better way to test than to make an object that’s clear, super finely detailed and has internal cavities that can hold fluids? I made this wasp/bee hybrid to test out the new machine.

l009-Bee copy

After cleaning the supports rather painstakingly, here’s what we get! It is difficult to see in the image, but the bee abdomen and body is actually hollow. Notice the difference between the refraction of the head (which is solid) and the abdomen.


Printed at the highest resolution of 25 microns/layer, the layers are barely visible on the head. The photos tend to bring out the layer lines a bit more than it looks in real life.

l007-Bee copy

There is a certain crispness to the print that you can’t achieve with FDM printing. To test the small details, I included veins on the wings which it had no problems resolving.


The antana’s are 0.8mm thick at the thickest part. It was quite challenging breaking off the support without breaking the antenna itself. This is also something an FDM printer would never be able to do.

So there’s our first test with the Formlabs Form 2 Printer. Lots more stuff to come! Stay tuned!

If you’re interested in the form 2 in Canada, check out our shop ( they are in-stock so you’re not waiting 4-8 weeks of lead time and save on crazy shipping/brokerage.


Venom with the 3DSimo 3d printing pen


Wow, we haven’t posted in a long time. Hopefully that will change as we make more cool stuff! Starting with this! We got a new 3Dsimo pen that allows you to draw with 3D printing filament. Allowing freeform designs in 3D space, a much more artistic and expressive experience compared to our usual design and print type of workflow. Check out this awesome Venom sculpt Sarah made!

We even have a turntable, check it out here:

Win an Ultimaker 2 GO with Innofil! Also, our thoughts on filament choices.


Hey Guys, just a heads up that Innofil3D is running a contest and they’re giving away an Ultimaker 2 Go! Two things we use daily to bring you cool stuff is Ultimakers and Innofil filaments! So check it out for a chance to win your own. Read on to learn about some of our filament trials and tribulations and seldomly discussed characteristics of cheap and premium filaments.

So if you’ve seen much of our work you’ll know we use Ultimaker 2’s to create our stuff. (and previously Ultimaker originals). They are wonderful machines, but we seldom talk about filaments. This is a good segway into what we use and why, when to use good filament and when to use the cheap stuff. We use OEM filaments the most, but a close second is innofil filaments especially when it comes to 3D hubs prints, print kits or otherwise prints that require reliability and surface quality above all else.

We’ve tested a lot of filaments.


This is just a fraction of the filaments we try out and keep around the shop. We paint a lot of our pieces so what’s important to us is print quality and reliability. We’re often on a tight schedule and a failed print could put is a day or two behind schedule instantly. The main causes of failure is often delamination from the buildplate, and this is the BIGGEST difference in filament quality that virtually no one talks about.

Consistent diameter filament is actually not that hard to find at a relatively inexpensive price, but what’s different is it’s sticking power on bare glass. We’ve noticed that Innofil and Ultimaker filament (when it comes to PLA) sticks almost double as well as other low cost filaments. We design with a very small footprint often (for quality purposes) and we run into frustrating problems of parts coming off the buildplate long before they’re complete using cheap filament.


While you are able to get good surface quality on cheap filaments, you can’t replicate the sticking power which means you’ll need to use a brim to get it to stick for the duration of the print. On a model like this, you would need to spend as much time cleaning up the brim as you would printing. And that’s no fun! So while you would save money on getting inexpensive filament, you would loose that time cleaning up brims or dealing with failed prints. So we often feel it’s worth it to get good filament for prints that are for sale and critical for timing.

Surface quality the next major factor. Old or inconsistent filament will get you lines across the Z axis of your print. While I sometimes use this (like in the fallout nuke) purposefully, it’s generally not a good thing. Cheap filament will sometimes be good, but premium filaments will  always be good. You pay for the consistency. If it’s critical on time and quality, that’s when you should use good filament.


Color consistency is another factor that not a lot of people talk about. Some filaments change tones slightly as the nozzle temperature fluctuates. It’s not something you usually think about, but if there’s a draft in the office, or your temperature sensor is just not being super consistent it will introduce slightly darker or lighter lines in your prints. They are minor, but affect the final look of your model. We’ve noticed especially with cheaper brands of filament that are slightly more translucent, they suffer from this to a great effect. If you want a homogeneous consistent color on your prints, stick with the better stuff. If you’re painting over top then it matters less what you use.

It might sound like I’m against cheap filament, but what I’m trying to get at are the differences I see between cheap and premium filaments and how they affect workflow. What’s important is knowing when to use which filament, and it will make your 3D printing process a much more enjoyable experience. I see a lot of people defaulting to inexpensive filament, and then complain that prints are not sticking to the bed so they apply glue and hairspray, miss their deadlines or run into unexpected warping issues and complain their printer is acting up, never considering that it is their choice of filament that is causing their pains. So stock both premium and cheap filaments and use them for their intended purpose!

Anyways, Innofil is giving away filaments, so here’s an opportunity to try it out for free if you win!

Full Disclosure:  

Redicubricks is affiliated with who in turn stock merchandise from Ultimaker and Innofil mentioned above.  

빨대로 야무치 관절 작동 피규어 만들기 #2 3D 펜 | 3D pen make Dragon Ball Yamuchi action figures #2

빨대로 관절을 만든 야무치 입니다.. 완성작 입니다..
좋아서 만드는 일이지만 노가다라는건 인정 ㅜㅠ…


3D펜 초간단 아이언맨 3Dpen making ironman

간단하게 만들어보는 아이언맨



Я сделал ЧЕЛОВЕКА ПАУКА известного персонажа Марвел, супергероя для желейного зайца Харитона. Мстители 2019
Подпишись на канал: и ЖМИ НА КОЛОКОЛЬЧИК 🔔

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Другие видео Харитона:

Композиция “Hand Trolley” принадлежит исполнителю Kevin MacLeod. Лицензия: Creative Commons Attribution (
Оригинальная версия:
Композиция “Merry Go Slower” принадлежит исполнителю Kevin MacLeod. Лицензия: Creative Commons Attribution (
Оригинальная версия:
Композиция “Hammock Fight” принадлежит исполнителю Kevin MacLeod. Лицензия: Creative Commons Attribution (
Оригинальная версия:
Композиция “Beachfront Celebration – Latinesque” принадлежит исполнителю Kevin MacLeod. Лицензия: Creative Commons Attribution (
Оригинальная версия:
Композиция “You So Zany” принадлежит исполнителю Audionautix. Лицензия: Creative Commons Attribution (
#человекпаук #3дручка #желейныйзаяцхаритон #мстителифинал


3D Pen Art! Angel Creation Challenge!!

SNS에 공유를 해주시면 제작자에게 큰힘이 됩니다!! ㅎㅎ
Sharing on social networking sites can be a big help to the manufacturer.

Music ~ ♬

1# bensound-memories
2# bensound-pianomoment


3D pen | 마미손 피규어 만들기

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